Phnom Penh - Tough History of Cambodia

We knew the day would come that we'd arrive in Phnom Penh and need to visit S-21 and the Killing Fields. We did not take any photos for obvious reasons. We could not believe what we saw: S-21 used to be a school in the middle on Phnom Penh that Pol Pot's horrid, paranoid wannabe Communist regime turned into a prison between 1974 - 1979. People were interrogated and forced to confess crimes they didn't commit then sent off to the Choeukh Eh (the Killing Fields) as their final destination point. Out of the several thousand going into S-21, only 7 survived to recount the details. In total, 1-2 million lives were lost as there were many places like this scattered all over the country. And the population was only 7 million to begin with - the equivalent to London's current population! We were upset for many reasons but mainly because this happened in our lifetime AND it's still happening in other countries today. (Do we sound like travel w*nkers, yet? World peace for all!)

On a happier note, we stayed in the FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club) along the river. Check out their photo gallery - so cool - http://www.fcccambodia.com/phnom_penh/phnom_penh_photos.php ! Our room was the same square footage as our flat. Stylish rooms, ambient lighting, large wooden furniture and white linens gave the room a very comfortable feel. And the bar restaurant, on 2 levels, overlooked the river - great for sunset drinks. The guidebook describes it as "a Southeast Asian version of Bogart's bar in the film Casablanca" - we actually didn't want to leave the hotel.... bar!

Other fun things we did was jump onto a "cyclo" which is essentially a recliner chair with a guy pushing you on a bike. Tim and I shared one - not comfortable or relaxing as the traffic here is more chaotic that one could ever imagine - the scooters dominate the roads and resemble a swarm of angry bees. Nobody adheres to traffic lights or crossings so you take your own life at every road crossing. However, it's all exhilarating and great fun.

We have never seen more markets than in SE Asia. It's a fashionista's dream with the amazing clothes, shoes, handbags and inexpensive silk/linen tailors. We have never had as many massages as we have had in SE Asia (when they cost less than a latte, why not?). When returning to London, I doubt we will ever need to visit another market or get another massage again but each time, it is another funny experience!