Final Night Out in Bangkok - Bye Bye Lol :(

Happy to be back in Bangkok, we decided to treat ourselves to a very nice dinner at Vertigo, a rooftop restaurant on the 59th floor. It was a good introduction to the restaurant prices in the US as this dinner cost us about as much as our entire Burma trip but the views (and slight anxiety attacks of being so high up) were worth it! No more $1 roadside noodle soup meals with mystery meat... Bring on French Laundry in Napa Valley!

Tim wins the fruffy drink award - Moon Romance sitting atop of dry ice so it was ssssmoldering. Tsss.

Lol and Tim look very smug standing so close to the dangerous, very scary, very high edge!

Burma: Summers in Rangoon...

The beginning of our trip started with several flights (3 flights in one day + 1 bumpy taxi journey) to Nyoungshwe or Lake Inle. We cycled around the area but got lost and never found the lake but we enjoyed the peaceful surroundings. The next day, we started our 3 day trek with a boatride on the lake. These fisherman are amazing.

Our trek was one of the trip highlights. We had one steep climb but spent most of our time travelling across vast farmlands.

We spent our first night in a monestary and our second night on a farm. The most interesting part is when Mr. Win, our guide, told us that we could "shower" over across the garden. Shower to them means cement basin filled with rainwater in open area where monks or farm family can watch us and laugh.

Since there were so many creatures that could nibble on us, I took to wearing my Euro-trekker outfit - long socks (thanks to Sockmaster Magentie) tucked into my trousers. I have the travel w*nker headband and all. Plus, I'm still donning my Beer Lao gut. The most exciting thing is that I am standing IN the terraced rice fields. Now, that's what it's all about.

Having dinner with the farm family was a treat too. These guys actually have a fire in their hut to cook and dry laundry.

After the trek, we had some stellar Shan noodles and fried tofu in Kalaw and met a member of the NLD. We were really excited to speak to someone about the political situation. Which reminds me... we were weary about coming to Burma (now called Myanmar) because of how the government treats their people. This oppressive government's main opposition, the NLD, lead by Aung Sun Suu Kyi has been in house arrest on and off for years. We read the book - Tim and I will be great chat at dinner parties. Anyway, we will discuss this horrible government when we see you next.

So, we travelled to Mandalay. Our main freedom was to rent bicycles and travel through the towns and cities. It was great fun going through the monks quarter and up Mandalay Hill - which is a series of steps leading through about 20 different shrines. We finished the day off in monsoon rain (me in white shirt, nice) cycling around the palace walls. There was a lot of great messages from red banners i.e. "Those who don't comply with the Union will be crushed". Nice.

Bagan was our next stop. After 10 hours on a scary, packed cargo bus, we made it to the city of a thousand temples. A very unique place, we'd advise going there for a couple days. These temples date back to over 1000 years ago. Some have been restored, some are only a few hundred years old. There is something magical (did she say magical??) about standing on one of these temples looking at other sandstone temples miles away.

Finally, Yangon, formerly known as Rangoon. I think of Tiffany White reciting Dr. Evil's childhood growing up spending "summers in Rangoon..." (Tim didn't get that one - Austin Powers?). It sounds exotic but with the exception of Shwedagon Paya, it's a busy city stuck in the 1940's. Nothing has been changed since the British were driven out in 1948. There is limited slow internet, no ATM's, no visa cards accepted (we had to carry over $1000 in cash for our trip) and unreliable electricity - most places have loud generators in front. This may sound charming to some but after two months haggling and cargo busing through Asia, Tim and I opted to spend a bit more time in our hotel oasis watching the tennis (watching Federer beat the Rafa the Biceps!) and ordering room service. I never thought that a hotel resembling the Holiday Inn could be so luxurious...

Laos - White Water Kayaking to Vientiane

Ok- so there was only one stretch of white water that was apparently between grade 2-3, it was a fun day trip none the less and a good way to break the journey south up. It was lovely just to get out on the river and do some exercise.

With a group of 4 of us we had the river to ourselves most of the day. Other than a few boys snorkelling with harpoons and a several fisherman we really didn't see anyone else on the river.

The fun-yaks are great fun to potter down river but are not perhaps the best for taking on rapids. Any hint of tipping and you are pretty much thrown off the kayak. Shannon and I just about managed not to tip over whilst going through the rapid (though Shannon looked like she was riding a mechanical bull). Ben and Katie were not so lucky- having not been able to see the route our guide had taken.
Lo cooked a gourmet lunch on the rocks whilst we swam and jumped off the rocks.

The final two hours by pick up truck was interesting. Overtaking a lorry on a blind hill is was intereting to see the lorry driver talking on the mobile phone having a beer.....it was a relief to reach Vientiane in one piece.

Vang Viang- Laos answer to Queenstown

Vang Viang is totaly unique. It has become a haven for backpackers travelling to spend time on a clear water river, rather than the murky water from all the silt. It breaks up the windy bus journey between Vientiane and Luang Probang. It is also one of the few places one can relax with out the interruptions from locals trying to sell tat.

A local tuk tuk driver kindly offered to drive us to

the start of tubing. Unfortunately he failed to mention he was also going to charge us $2 for the priviledge of driving us 150 yards. Negotiations to retrieve the money (it's the principle of not being conned) was not going too well as voices raised. The driver knowing that we were to leave shortly really was in a rather comanding position. As we mounted the tuk tuk to leave I casually wandered over to his tuk tuk and removed the keys. It would be fair to say that neither of us have seen a driver move so quickly. Had we not got the refund the keys were coming tubing. Moral victory number 2 (again in Laos, like Vietnam, it was to be short victory).

Both Queenstown and Vang Viang offer outdoor activites to see some of the countryside. The main difference is that in Vang Viang you don't need to sober. Tubing is the most popular activity- hiring what must be a tractor inner tube you essentially drift down stream moving from one bar to another. Rope swings and death slides provide a brief distraction from main activity of chilling out as you drift down river. As each bar vies for your attention there is an interesting mix of 80's Euro Pop and the inevitable Bob Marley.

Some people stay in Vang Viang for a few days. For us, 1 night was more than enough. Most restaurants play western DVD's all day. Whilst offering a break from travelling there was not sufficient pull to stay any longer.

Laos- Luang Prabang

The 4 day overland journey to Luang Probang really is worth it.

Luang Probang is the second city of Laos but still feels like a small market town. It is however strange as it does not feel like a typical city in a third world country. There are very few beggars, no litter or any of the poverty that you would expect. Instead, there are wine bars, expensive boutique shops and a shortage of backpacker accomodation.

Shannon and I just enjoyed chilling out, wandering around the book shops and galleries and then heading off on some bikes to explore the local countryside. Bearing in mind it is the second city, it was rather odd to be in the middle of the countryside after a few minutes cycling. Stopping for a roadside snack, it was a bit of a shock to see
baby dog kebabs....we moved swiftly on.

Luang Probang is known for the monks giving Alms. Every morning at 5.30 the monks walk the streets accepting gifts from the locals. It really is quite a sight seeing up to 300 monks walking single file down the street accepting gifts of food, mostly sticky rice, from the locals. You should only give the monks something of value from yourself and not from some of the street vendors, otherwise the sense of spirituality is lost. You actually get a better feel for the habit if you wander along some of the smaller streets where smaller groups of monks collect the alms from the locals. If you choose to participate, buy your own food from the markets the day before, NOT from the vendors that morning.

Enjoying the Laos food, we joined a cookery class. Visiting a local market and chopping up the local produce whilst being talked through local culinary techniques was a different way to gain an insight into the local people.

The onset of the rainy season seems to have been premature during our bus journey. Since arriving in Laos I have continued to perfect the acquistion of a 'rouge' sun tan.....

Break for the Border- Vietnam to Laos

It proved a challenge to fulfill our aim of an overland trip between Vietnam and Laos. However- having now managed it, it has become a highlight of our travels so far. There have been several reports of the border crossings at Nameo as being far from pleasant. Border guards and transport too and from the village have been a source to concern for some travellers- however- either things have improved or we were lucky.

Leaving Ninh Binh early morning Shannon and I left on the back of two motorbikes.....well OK- one was a moped. Not quite living the biker dream of the open road on a Harley but it worked. I am not particularly experienced on the back of motor bikes so the next two days was to prove a bit of challenge.Like all great expeditions, we set off having planned meticulously.

15 minutes out of town we ran out of petrol. Not possibly the best start for the trip.......Shannon was on the lead bike with Kiem, I was following closely, some may say too close but this is Asia. Anyway, the interped explorers headed east to Mai Cho, only about 140 kms east but almost 6 hours away. The terrain was incredible. Going though the moutainous jungle, briefly broken by a serious of small settlements. Passing through one village we saw a chopstick factory. Shortly afterwards a series of waterwheels used to take water from the river to irrigate the paddy fields. Both were views we would not have seen on bus taking the normal route.By this time my confidence on teh back of the moped was not much better.

Action was needed on arrival at Mai Cho. A quick walk around the stunning countryside ......and then Rice Wine (plenty of it), local food (though not the insects) and Vietnamese Kareoke. I am shocking, Shannon proved to be quite some diva. Our two drivers remained unimpressed. What did we have to do to impress them? Shannon had tried the insect but was unable to palate the crunchiness of the insects leg.

The second day was a sprint to Nameo for 6 hours. More winding roads, suicidal chickens, dogs, cows and goats to be narrowly avoided, along with a flat tire. Skillfully the drivers dismantled the back wheel and replaced the inner tube. I did not check that any nuts and bolts were left on the ground. I would rather not think about it.... Other than that it was a largely uneventful journey.

Arriving at the border after 2 days was a relief- though I would have to recommend it to anyone travelling in the area. You can fly from Hanoi to Luang Probang- but with such a great journey it would be a shame to miss the experience.

Ha Long Bay - Behaving like teenagers

Being so close, we felt we could not miss the spectacular Ha Long Bay. With 1969 limestone islands jutting out of the sea it really is stunning.

(We only know that there are 1969 islands as it is also the year of Ho Chi Minh's death. Is this a coinsidence or an element of fiction by the country's rulers- never missing the chance for some pointless propoganda).

Anyway- joining a tour with about 10 others we headed off to the islands and the brand new boat on it's maiden voyage. Fantastic, however someone did mention the Titanic. We were probably amongst the oldest, along with some very cool Americans, Chris and Kim.

The boat really was pretty smart with great rooms and deck to enjoy the views. We were excitedly told that all the rooms had sea views- we could not hide our surprise. As with many tourist attractions the secret is out. Our hopes of being the only boat amoungst the islands were soon dashed. With about 100 boarts nearby we were later told that it is for our own safety that the boats are close to each other.

Relaxing, enjoying the journey to the islands a few beers were shared by all. At $2 it was like paying UK prices for beer. Having been guided around the caves on an island, Chris and Kim along with Shannon and I resolved to enjoy the cheaper prices of beer to bring onto the boat. We were spotted by our guide and told this was not possible. Resorting to student-like activities we smuggled the cans aboard- moral victory No 1. It was a short lived victory.

Showering after a power 45 minute canoeing, I managed to spectacularly pull down the towel rail. Revenge for Vietnam. Not only did the rail fall off but whilst plummeting to the ground it rebounded off the toilet cystern- shattering the top cover. Great. It was not as if I was doing pull ups and had broken the rail irresponsibly. Vietnam strikes again. Apparantely toilet lids are a prized commodity in Vietnam. Undoubtedly making a hansome profit we were charged $36 for the privilege.

The only saving grace and redeeming feature was that I was able to win a T shirt at one of the beaches by running across 5 floating and unstable polysterene blocks. I put it down to years of training at the Wargrave and Shiplake regatta and all those unsuccessfull attempts on the greesy poll.

The few days at the bay were indeed fun, more due to the people we met and the feeling that there was a constant battle against being ripped off. Though worth spending time out there I would recommend booking through Kangaroo Cafe. Everyone we have met have had great tours and not experienced the problem of some of the locals ways of extracting the extra dollar from you.